Balconies and Boulders

Saturday afternoon, after some beach R and R, we had a closing puja in the shala--the energy was warm and happy. Everyone looked their Sunday best (even though it was Saturday)--Georgina and I wore the dresses we'd bought in Arambol together and many of the other girls had picked up something special as well. It was a treat to see each other out of our (now) grungy yoga ware, hair all did and donning a few pieces of jewelry here and there. We got our new forehead smudges and another red string round our wrists and chanted as we passed incense and melted ghee 5 times over the shiva portrait and threw frankincense into the fire for good luck. Our certificates were granted and then it was time to celebrate. Most of the crew went to a big night market after dinner, but me and 3 other of my favorite gals (Miriam, Corina and Jessica) hung 'round for a more relaxed night choosing to enjoy wine, desserts and a series of belly laughs that had us nearly rolling off our floor cushions--it was perfect.

Sunday, I went around and chatted with the others who had stuck it out at Riva and we had our last (slightly melancholy) breakfast together. That afternoon, I rented scooters with Kate, and Tess and Kate's friend Jo and we rode north up the coast to Querim and then took a ferry accross the river (scooters and cars and all--quite a thrill and a fright for a first time 'scoot-er-ie' like myself) and rode up to Terekhol fort which is really more like a castle. From there we could admire the Arabian sea, a winding river and the abundance of coconut trees from a bird's eye view--sigh. It was a shame to part ways with the scooters and much more of a shame to part ways with my new friends from yoga school, but at least I didn't have to say all my goodbye's at once--Corina and Jessica came with me to Panajim--Goa's capital city.

Much like Pondicherry's French twist, the traces of Portuguese colonization are easy to spot in Panajim. In fact, the bright colored stucco and ornate lattice work on the balconies, each one eliciting another girly squeal of course, jump right off the page. The city is full of charming cobblestone streets and (along with nearby Old Goa), houses many many churches to explore, if that's your cup of tea. Us three hit a few of the must sees including the ruins of the Church of St. Augustine--once the largest cathedral in Goa (even the rubble is grand)--en route to the spice plantation. After learning some fascinating facts about spices and touring the plantation with our eyes , noses and tongues, we had thalis for lunch and a cup of cashew feni (unpalatably strong alcohol distilled from the cashew nut's fruit which actually happens to be really tasty before being distilled into the feni) on the house.

The following day, Corina got on her way back to good ol' Canada, but Jessica and I continued on to Hampi on an incredibly uncomfortable overnight bus. We got here when it was still pitch black and caught up on some sorely missed z's until late morning. Then finally, we ventured out and began to take in the new landscape . For the better part of the afternoon we chatted and gazed from out hilltop perch at the rock formations that put Hampi permanently (and deservedly) on the tourist circuit. It was impossible to tell whether we were looking at big piles of rocks and boulders with greens interrupting in the spaces between them or at hills with loads of rocks and boulders crushing all their greens. Either way the sight was totally awe-striking. Just when we thought we'd seen the most unlikely balancing act, we'd look over and spot another enormous boulder looking like it would start rolling Indiana Jones style with the slightest nudge. These eye catching sandy colored boulder piles surrounded us, and dotted among them were all shapes and sizes of temple ruins which we casually explored as they fell across our wandering path. It was easy to see how a week might drift by unnoticed as one watched the sunrise and set throwing it's rosy blanket over the rocks. Jessica stayed on to do some further watching, but I only had a couple days to soak up Hampi's magic before heading back to Bangalore to meet up with Gingie before my flight home. (woah. home. weird.)