oh yeah

it's probably important to make note after that last entry that the absolutely breathtaking beauty of Halong Bay and later Tam Coc outside of Ninh Binh overshadowed most of our troubles. They both could easily be world wonders in my book (i dunno exactly what impact my book will have on the world but i plan to publish and find out) and Ilse and I carried on generally without regrets but certainly a bit wiser for next time :)